Waking up before sunrise if the forecast asked me to, hitch hiking to the beach and missing the last possible ride back, staying in a surf town up to weeks just to practice surfing, and all the bruises I've received from this sport; this unexplainable addiction even before I first touched it..It's just so addictive.
Haven't done surfing in more than a year and missing it so.
Thinking of getting back on board coming season, and back to beginner course even after so long, but in hopes of not riding only whitewash after this 🏄
